|
|
Kurti Pattern Drafting Instructions
Click here for bigger image
Measurements to be taken:
Full Length = Highest shoulder point (HPS) to the length that you want (straight down perpendicular to floor)
HPS to Waist = HPS to waist level (straight down perpendicular to floor)
Hip Depth = waist level to hip level (straight down perpendicular to floor)
Across shoulder = Shoulder bone on top of arm to the other shoulder bone passing over the shoulder blades; measured from back (Straight across)
Across front = Mid of armhole to other mid of armhole measured in front body
Round Chest / Bust = measure around the body over the bust area with tape parallel to floor
Round Waist = measure around the body around the waist area with tape parallel to floor
Round Hip = measure around the body over the hip area with tape parallel to floor
Draft Making
Fold 45 inches of paper in half lengthwise and mark zero a little down from the top edge.
Draw a straight line down on the edge of folded paper
0-1 = Full Length (40 inches) ; This is the Center Front of Kurti (CF)
Then mark the other points on this line as follows:
0-2 = Back neck depth (1.5 inch)
0-3 Front neck depth (3 inches)
0-4 = Across front level (=half of 3-5) and end the line half an inch inside the line of Armhole depth from point 9.
0-5 = Armhole Depth (7-8 inches)
0-6 = HPS to waist level (15 inches)
6-7 = Hip Depth (8 inches)
Make a lines perpendicular to 0-1 line and mark following -
0-9 = half of Across shoulder (7 ½ inches)
5-11 = Chest level (equals one fourth of round chest/bust plus three quarter of an inch)
= 36/4 plus Ύ inch =9 Ύ inches
Bring a line down from point 9 parallel to CF hitting the chest level line.
6-12 = equals 5=11, Mark point 15 inside by 1 to 2 inches according to fit.
7-13 =Round Hip /4 plus one and a quarter inch (if kurti length is short, add only one inch)
1-14 = half of round hem you want, one to two inches more than 7-13 measurement
Draw necklines:
0-7 = Neck Width = 3 and a half inch
With the help of a French curve make back neck and front neck.
Both should be perpendicular for some distance when starting from CF line, 1 cm for Front Neck and 5 cm for Back neck.
Shape Armhole:
9-10 is the shoulder slope = one and a quarter inch for women. Join 8-10 with a straight line.
Place armhole curve (French Curve) so that it touches point 10, across front line and the chest level at 11 point. This is the front Armhole curve. For back armhole curve, use French curve but make the curve outside the front armhole curve by one cm at the across front level line.
For better fit at shoulder, shift the back shoulder line up by half an inch (Marked with Blue color)
Side Seam Shaping:
Join point 11 and 15 with a straight line or an inward curve.
Join 15 and 13 in a S shape curve as shown in picture.
Make a straight line from 13 -14 which would become opening for side slits.
Curve the hemline up at point 14 by half an inch to one inch depending on length of Kurti.
Cutting the Patterns:
Cut the patterns separately for front and back kurti.
Write CF on line 0-1 for Front Kurti and CB (Center Back) for Back Kurti.
Mark Grainline parallel to CF and CB line.
Write Basic Kurti in bold and:
Size = Medium (Bust = 36 inches)
Cut 1 piece for Front and one for back keeping the Grainline parallel to the selvedge.
Seam Allowance Guide:
Keep the minimum for curves like neckline and armholes, and more for side seam as one may want to open seam for future changes in size.
So, we have this seam allowance:
Shoulder Half inch
Neckline Half inch or one cm
Armholes Half inch
Side Seam One inch
Bottom hem One inch
Sleeve Draft
Measurements to be taken:
Full length of Sleeve = From shoulder bone to length that you want e.g, wrist level for full length sleeve.
Sleeve opening = measure around the bicep and add half an inch for short sleeves. For long sleeves, measure around the hand approximately 5-5 ½ inches for half pattern.
Top Arm level / Cap Height = Taken as 4- 41/2 inches standard for Kurti.
Draft Making:
Fold the paper in half length wise.
Mark point zero a little down from the top edge of paper.
0-1 = Full Length of sleeve (21 inches)
0-2 = Cap Height = 4 inches
2-3 = Top Arm measurement = measure top arm and add one inch as ease to it. Or, measure 10=11 in a straight line (shown as purple color in picture of Kurti draft) and take it as 0-3.
1-4= Sleeve opening = 5 inches
Join all points with straight lines as shown in diagram.
Measure the slant line 0-3 and divide it in four equal parts with points A, B and C.
For making sleeve curve, mark perpendicular short lines on A, B and C points as shown.
At A Go up by Ύ inches
At B Go up by 5/8 inches
At C Go down by 3/8 inches
Join all the points with the help of French curve so that it is an S shaped curve and in a continuous way.
This is Front sleeve curve.
Make the curve higher at the lower part for Back Sleeve curve by 3/8 inch.
Match Sleeve and Armhole Measurements:
Sleeve measurement at cap curve should be 1.5-2.5 cm more than the total Armhole curve measurement (measure in curve with tape standing and add front and back armhole measurements)
Adjust sleeve pattern if not in this range of difference.
Seam allowance:
Sleeve curve- Half inch
Sleeve underarm seam one inch
Sleeve Hem one inch.
That finishes the draft of Kurti and its sleeve. Make a rough sample first and check for fitting. Change patterns accordingly and save for future use.
|
|
